Greek Taverna Classics: Keftedes and Tyrokafteri
Despina Siahuli shares recipes for two traditional Greek dishes – fragrant, herby meatballs and a creamy, spicy dip made from chilli peppers and feta – that she loves to cook at home.
Good morning, and welcome to Vittles! Today, Despina Siahuli shares recipes inspired by traditional tavernas in her hometown, Athens.
There are still a few copies of Issue 1 available on our website.
Athens is a place of striking contradictions, where ancient heritage meets concrete apartment blocks, and where warmth and generosity mix with a certain raw, unfiltered urban energy. Tavernas have always captured the city’s spirit for me. They’re places of unpretentious hospitality, often staffed by self-taught cooks, where you can stumble across unexpected kindness and unapologetic directness.
My favourite tavernas – like Oikonomou in the nostalgic neighbourhood of Ano Petralona – are like old friends: familiar, grounding, comforting. You can return after years and pick up right where you left off. And yes, they might disappoint now and then – but that’s a lesson in trust, imperfection, and enduring love.
The recipes I’m sharing today are for two of my favourite taverna classics that I also love to cook at home for friends and family: keftedes and tyrokafteri.
Keftedes are fragrant, fresh, and perfectly balanced meatballs, with just the right ratio of meat, herbs, and bread, often served with no fuss or garnish. My personal recipe has taken me more than a decade to perfect. I’m a big herb enthusiast, so parsley and dried oregano are essential, and I add a hint of mint to bring out a touch of freshness. The curry powder, meanwhile, is a small nod to the soutzoukakia from Volvi (near Varvakios, Athens’ central food market), one of my favourite places to enjoy souvlaki and meatballs, and gently enhances the other flavours without overpowering them. Meat-wise, I use a combination of pork and beef mince, which really enhances the juiciness of the keftedes. I’m offering two different cooking suggestions: either fried until golden or gently baked in a rich tomato sauce.
I’m also sharing my recipe for tyrokafteri, a creamy dip made from chilli peppers and feta that for me is often the highlight of a good meal at a taverna. Greek food is rarely spicy, but tyrokafteri is a rare and delightful exception. It’s a simple yet punchy, and pairs beautifully with keftedes, a crisp seasonal salad, and plenty of good bread.
Keftedes
I’ve provided two sets of instructions for cooking these meatballs – simply frying them, or cooking in my favourite simple tomato sauce.