Silken Sweetness: Tofu Fa and Mango Coconut Sago
Two signature – and vegan – Hong Kong desserts that are rooted in tradition but endlessly adaptable. Words and images by Jane Lee.
Good morning, and welcome to Vittles! Today, Jane Lee shares contemporary versions of two classic Hong Kong desserts that just happen to be vegan.
Also, Vittles Issue 1 is now back online! We have sold 95 percent of the print run and we will not reprint, so these are the last copies available. We’d recommend ordering now if you’d like to get one before we move onto Issue 2 later this year.
In the bustling markets and quiet corners of Hong Kong, dessert isn’t just a treat – it’s a moment of rest, a quiet ritual. As a child, among the many puddings and sweets sold by street vendors, one always stood out to me: tofu fa.
Since then, it has remained a constant thread, woven through every stage of my life. As a young woman, if tofu fa appeared on the dessert menu, I would order it without hesitation. After I got married and moved to Wrexham in North Wales, where my husband and I now run a vegan takeaway, I made it a habit to seek out the best versions during trips back to Hong Kong.
Tofu fa is made from mixing soya milk with a natural coagulant, which sets it into a tender custard. Unlike with firm tofu, there’s no pressing involved, just a gentle coaxing of soy into silk. Traditionally, making tofu fa is a multi-step process: you soak and blend soybeans to extract the milk, bring it to just the right temperature, then pour it into a bowl prepared with setting agents like food-grade gypsum powder, nigari, or glucono delta-lactone. While the reward is immense, the method is time-consuming, especially for those juggling modern life.
So, I adapted it. I found a way to preserve tofu fa’s silken integrity using agar-agar, a seaweed-derived setting agent rich in minerals and fibre. Using good-quality shop-bought soya milk and a little patience, I managed to create a version of my childhood favourite that is soft, nourishing, and deeply comforting – especially when served with a drizzle of homemade ginger syrup. It takes only fifteen minutes to prepare (plus a couple of hours to set), but the end result feels far more intricate.
The second dessert that I’m sharing a recipe for today, mango coconut sago, arrived later in my life. It has always felt more celebratory, reserved for family dinners, birthdays, or dim sum finales. Bright and tropical, this dessert is made with chilled coconut milk, mango purée, and translucent sago pearls, its ingredients reflecting Hong Kong’s layered food history, with influences drawn from colonial trade, Southeast Asian flavours, and evolving urban tastes.
Though distinct in character, both tofu fa and mango coconut sago share a quiet grace. Both are rooted in tradition, yet endlessly adaptable, delicate in texture, but rich with meaning. These are desserts I not only crave, but also feel grateful to pass on – first to my children, and now to you: cooks and readers far beyond my own kitchen.
Tofu Fa with Homemade Ginger Syrup
