Reevaluating the Classics
Reevaluating the Classics
Six well-known London restaurants you need to revisit: a Six of One special
Hello and welcome back to Vittles Restaurants.
Usually in Six of One, our writers recommend a place to eat at that you may not have heard of yet. In this week’s newsletter, we’ve decided to do something a bit different. Inspired by a conversation with Nick Bramham on the value of the classics, and the greatness of the lobster thermidor at that old Theatreland stager, J Sheekey, we’ve asked our writers to recommend six dishes at six restaurants that you almost certainly have heard of, but maybe haven’t visited in a while.
This threw up a glut of fun recommendations that normally wouldn’t make it onto Six of One, but deserve to: Hester van Hensbergen on desserts at one of the all-time influential London restaurants, Zayneb Al Asaadi on grilled chicken at a BW (Before Westfield) era Shepherds Bush legend, Jonathan Nunn on some of the best-value sushi omakase in north London, Shekha Vyas back in East Ham on a great Malayali restaurant that keeps getting better with age, and Yanyu Sun on her favourite, undersung Wong Kei dish.
But first, we begin with…
… 1. The eternal greatness of the lobster thermidor at J Sheekey
An impromptu post-theatre dinner: a table is found, coats are whisked away, we’re led through the warren of oak-panelled rooms – oh there’s Sam and Aaron Taylor-Johnson. Who’s that shuffling around over there? I swear it's Mel Brooks, looking for his portrait. ‘Still or sparkling water sir, madam?’ We already know what we want – our order is the same every time: lobster thermidor served with chips (italics the menu’s whispered, flirtatious own), a green salad and a starter at random. All to share, please.
Ice-cold sparkling water is poured into fine-stemmed glasses, while heavy, silver salt and pepper pots are placed on the thick tablecloth with a reassuring thud. A basket of warm, sliced baguette arrives with a sidecar of cool, salted butter.
The lobster lands split in half and splayed open, bubbling and blistered by the salamander grill, looking every inch like an infernal Rorschach test as designed by H.R. Giger, and yet somehow it is still appealing. Beneath the surface the meat is perfectly tender, coated in the creamy cognac-and-mustard-spiked mornay sauce, with the pleasing allium high note of snipped chives. Homemade chips come hot and salty, crisp and cosseted (they have their own silverware). Ramekins of ketchup and mayonnaise are thrown down without request, the latter homemade, the former Heinz. Correct, respect.
We enjoy greedy forkfuls of sweet lobster meat, with the chips alternately dragged through the sauce and dipped in the two condiments. The fresh green salad prevents it all from ever becoming A Bit Much, while the bread and butter ensures not a lick of sauce is left clinging to the empty shell. We leave happy, full and grateful that a place like this still exists.
At under £100 for a meal for two this is affordable luxury of the very highest order, with immaculate service, in one of London's most beautiful and historic dining rooms: squint and blur your fellow guests' 21st-century outfits and the iPad at the waiters’ station and you could be enjoying it during any era from the Belle Époque onwards. Nick Bramham
28-32 St Martin's Court, WC2N 4AL