Songsoo Kim’s Andong Jjimdak (Braised Chicken with Squash and Glass Noodles)
A hearty noodle bowl with a deep savory sauce and just the right kick of heat. Words by Songsoo Kim. Photographs by Ben McMahon.
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Welcome to Vittles Recipes! In this weekly slot, our roster of five rotating columnists share their recipes and wisdom with you. This week’s columnist is Songsoo Kim.
If you’ve been enjoying the writing then please consider subscribing to keep it running. Subscribing will give you access to the whole Vittles back catalogue – including Vittles Restaurants, Vittles Columns, and our archive of cookery writing. A Vittles subscription costs £5/month or £45/year.
Noodle Therapy: Bounce Back
A seasonal twist on a fortifying Korean dish.
Andong jjimdak is a dish made with chicken, potatoes, and glass noodles braised with a slightly spicy soy-based sauce. In Korea, it’s associated with Bongchu Jjimdak, a restaurant chain that has been around for years, one of those OG franchises that never needed flashy ads or aggressive expansion. Bongchu Jjimdak only sells one dish – jjimdak – in three sizes: small (小), medium (中), and large (大). These restaurants are tucked into residential neighborhoods next to office buildings; in the evenings you can see busy mothers picking up their takeout, neatly packed in a large container and always served with dongchimi, a clear yet milky radish water kimchi that balances the richness of the dish.
To me, jjimdak has always been the perfect, comforting meal: tender chicken, hearty potatoes, and savory sauce with just the right kick of heat to make it satisfying. But what stand out most are the sweet potato glass noodles known as dangmyeon, which soak up the sauce but retain a deeply satisfying chewy texture. For lack of a better word in English, this chewiness can be described as ‘qu-qu’, an onomatopoeic term that I learned from my Taiwanese friends – which the dangmyeon, with their springy, fun texture bring to mind. The satisfying bounce of the noodles always reminds me that I can find my own bounce back.
This recipe is my own iteration of andong jjimdak. Because it’s squash season in the UK, I’ve added some to the dish – the natural sweetness of the flesh beautifully complements the saltiness of the sauce. A homely dish for the upcoming cold, a filling bowl of food that also fills the heart, andong jjimdak is the perfect meal to share with colleagues after a long day, or to enjoy on Sundays with friends or family. Whenever I dig into it, it feels like a hug, giving me whatever I need most at the time – whether it’s a moment to reset or the resilience to keep going.
Andong Jjimdak (Braised Chicken with Squash and Glass Noodles)
Sweet potato glass noodles are gluten-free and have a mild flavour, allowing them to absorb the taste of sauces and seasonings quite well. Their slightly elastic texture makes them versatile for both hot and cold dishes. This texture is a key feature of andong jjimdak. Depending on the region or restaurant, different types of glass noodles are used, and each type adds a different character. In the notes below, I’ve provided a guide to the different types by level of bounciness.
Serves 2–3
Time 45 mins