What the Fuck is the River Café Podcast?

As we reach peak celebrity food podcast, Simran Hans explores how Ruthie’s Table 4 uses the great leveller of food to consolidate an elite brand.

Good morning and welcome to Vittles. Each Monday we publish a different piece of writing related to food, whether it’s an essay, a dispatch, a polemic, a review, or even poetry. This week, Simran Hans goes deep on the bizarrely compelling Ruthie’s Table 4, the star-studded River Café podcast which feels like a throwback to another era of celebrity.

If y…