You Can’t Go Wrong With Delia

Brian Dillon on Christmas with Delia. Illustration by Seb Tanti Burlò.

Good morning and welcome to Vittles. Today’s essay, by Brian Dillon, is about Delia Smith and the constancy of the Christmas meal. This will be the last newsletter proper of the year before we go on a Christmas break, although we will return for a special two-part review of the year next week.

A final pin on our noticeboard: the Guild of Food Writers Aw…